On day 11 we left Rome by bus for the 3 hour drive south to Naples. Naples is one of those places I don’t think I would have ever gone on my own. It is gritty, poor, dirty. It’s a little scary. But at the same time it is incredibly beautiful. There were far fewer tourists in Naples, and in the evenings the locals came out in droves to walk the streets. The graffiti is spectacular. The food is amazing. It was a welcome change from the big city of Rome, and I’m so glad we went. We spent three nights in Naples at the lovely, if basic, Hotel Toledo, with breakfast served daily on the rooftop terrace – including one of our favorite things from our last visit to Naples: sfogliatelli!